476 into 276, at speed, through work zones most of the year. We spray a clear film over your paint so the stone hits that and your finish stays the one you bought the car with.

Toll road miles are fast miles, and fast miles are where stone stops bouncing and starts cutting. Add a work zone with loose aggregate on the shoulder and you have the worst combination there is for a front end.
Two years in, the bumper has a scatter of white specks and the hood edge is peppered. It reads fine in the garage and obvious in direct sun, and it is a line item at trade-in.
Everything that would have hit your clearcoat hits a clear film sitting over it instead, 8 to 12 mil thick. Light marring sands and buffs back the way paint does.
When you sell, it peels off in sheets and the factory paint is underneath, in the condition you bought it. No blend lines and no conversation about paintwork.

A clear bra is cut from a roll and stuck down with adhesive, so it ends in an edge at every panel. Those edges collect road grime and eventually lift, and the glue underneath bakes onto your clearcoat over a few summers.
Ours goes on as a liquid in a downdraft paint booth and cures into one continuous film. Nothing cut, nothing glued. It still peels off years later, it just does not fight you on the way out.
Plan on the car being with us a few days. Correction, masking, spraying, curing, wet sanding and polishing each take real time.

