Three things move the price of any paint protection job. How much of the car you cover, how much correction the paint needs first, and how complicated the panels are. Below is how to read a quote so you can tell a real one from a thin one, and how the film we spray on differs from the film most shops cut and stick down.
4.9 stars · 352 Google reviews · Stowe, PA

Model 3 in the shop
This is true whether you're quoting film, a coating, or what we spray. If a shop can't tell you where their number comes from, that's your answer.
A front end costs less than a whole car. That part is obvious. What's less obvious is that partial coverage puts a visible line somewhere on your car, and where that line falls changes the labor a lot.
Anything left on the paint gets sealed under the protection until it comes off. Correcting first is not an upsell, it's the difference between protecting a good finish and locking in a bad one. On a new car this is shorter. It's rarely zero.
A flat door is quick. A bumper with sensors, vents, and tight radiuses is not. Two cars with the same coverage tier can be hours apart in labor because of shape alone.
Hours and skill are most of the price of any protection job. A quote well under the going rate isn't a better deal on the same work. It's a different amount of work wearing the same name.
Our pricing is published rather than gated. You can see where things land before you talk to anyone.
PeelClear goes on in a paint booth, the same way automotive clear coat does. It cures into a layer 8 to 12 mil thick over your factory paint. That's as thick as or thicker than premium film.
There's no adhesive. It bonds mechanically, so there's no glue line against your paint and nothing to yellow or bake on. There are no cut edges either, because nothing was cut. It ends the way paint ends.
When it takes a hit, that's the layer doing its job. Scrapes and chips sand and buff back, or get spot resprayed on that panel. With film, damage usually means stripping and replacing that panel's section.
And when you're done with it, it peels off in sheets. Your factory paint is right there underneath.
Go Deeper
You don't need to know the products to tell a serious quote from a thin one. You need to know which questions make a shop specific.
Ask us the same four. If we get vague, hold us to it.
The goal is simple. Your paint looks the same in five years as it does today. Getting there means putting a layer over it that takes the hits instead. There are two ways to do that, and the difference shows up years later, not on day one.
The common way is sheet film. It arrives on a roll, gets cut to each panel, and sticks down with adhesive. Done well it looks great leaving the shop. But it has to end somewhere, so every panel carries an edge, and that edge is where dirt collects and lifting starts.
The other way is spraying it. Ours goes on in a paint booth and cures into one continuous film across the whole panel. No seams, because nothing was cut. No adhesive, because it bonds mechanically. It still peels off in sheets years later, just without a fight and without taking clearcoat with it.
Sheet film is still the right call for a dedicated track car eating debris at speed. For nearly every Tesla we see, sprayed is the better answer, and it puts color on the table, which clear sheet can't do.
Teslas come through here constantly, and the questions repeat.
You're still our customer. Nothing about this changed that.
We maintain film we installed, we'll look at lifting edges or staining and tell you honestly whether it's worth addressing, and we'll keep the rest of the car in shape around it. Ceramic coating goes over film fine, and that's often the cheapest way to make an aging film install easier to live with.
What we won't do is quote you new film. Bring the car in and we'll tell you what we'd actually do with it.